Home Again

Saturday afternoon I boarded the plane from Bangalore to Mumbai, later I got on another to Newark, and then one more to Baltimore. 36 hrs later, I was home.

(a goodbye lunch for me with my family)





To make the return trip interesting, I decided to bring home a large clay head called a dhristi in my carry on luggage. Dhristis are traditionally put on the roof of a house to ward off bad luck. I figured it would be perfect on the outside of my house. The head looks a lot like a demon-- it is red, has horns, and his tongue it sticking out. It weighs about ten lbs. I stuck it in the book bag and wrapped clothes around it to protect it.



(this is a dhristi outside of a construction site)





Sadly, it didn't make it past security in Banglore. One security guard told me it was too heavy to be a carry on. Another told me it was a security risk. The long and the short of it is that I was forced to leave my dhirsti behind the airport security counter along with confiscated shaving razors and bottled water.

Overall, I was very sad to leave India. I had a wonderful trip, although it was much too short. The best part of it was visiting with my family. A close second was the amazing food that I ate and the hundred of pictures I was able to take (to be uploaded on flickr soon).

And with that, my blog is over. Perhaps there will be another one sometime in the future?

Auroville-- aka the Dharma Initiative

Part of the reason to visit Pondy was to go to a neighboring village called Auroville. If you watch Lost-- just think of the village that the Dharma Initiative lives in-- and you have Auroville. It is, for the lack of a better word, a commune. Like minded people from all over the world come to live here with the goal of living a life of peace and harmony. This commune consists of scientists, artists, engineers, etc. all working for the good of Auroville. One of their goals is to become completely self-sufficient from the rest of the world. The commune was started by a French woman known as "The Mother." (I know all of this because we were shown a ten minute introductory video at the beginning of our tour).

Part of The Mothers dream was for Auroville to center around a large structure where people could come for silent meditation. The finished center is called the Matru Mandir and I wish cameras were allowed, because it is a site to see. On the outside it looks like a golden Epcot Center. On the inside, it looks like something straight out of a science fiction movie-- there are tall sloping marble ramps leading up to a large center room which is lit only by a single beam of light coming down from a small opening in the ceiling and reflecting into a large crystal ball. In this room, people travel from all over the world to sit in silence and meditate. This entire structure was built by volunteers who live in Auroville (Aurovillians) and local villagers. It took something like 40 years for it to be constructed.

I am still processing how I feel about Auroville. On one hand, I feel cynical--but perhaps in the US we are trained to be instantly cynical of things like this. Auroville had some great gift shops and gardens, and I did kind of like meditating in the Matru Mandir, so it can't be all bad...

Pondy

For the last few days of my trip, my Aunt, my mom, my cousin J. and I went on a holiday to Pondicherry (fondly referred to as Pondy). This is a beach town that once was colonized by the French in the 1800s. As a result Pondy has street names such as "Dumas " and "La Rue Bourdonnais." It also offers foods such as croissants and pain du chocolate at local bakeries.


The Lonely Planet guide showed a map that suggested that the drive to Pondy would be a straight shot from Bangalore on a major highway. Ah, Lonely Planet-- like the DIY network--how you love to make things look easier than the actually are. Our drive included twisty roads that often went straight through the middle of towns and villages. While it was not a straight shot, by any stretch of the imagination, it was a great drive for looking at the countryside and farms. We saw lots of mango trees beginning to flower and yes, we saw monkeys! Lots of them.










The best part of the 7hr drive, was when we stopped to get South Indian coffee and a breakfast food that I can't remember its name, but it looks like a mound of sticky rice. It was quite good!










We decided to rough it a little on our holiday (after all, we can't always stay at the Taj) so we rented two rooms in an old colonial house that offered a home stay. Each room had a color assigned to it and everything in the room was that color. I stayed in the lime green room, which featured a lime green mosquito net, curtains, table cloth, duvet color, etc. My aunt's room was the pink room.









During the day, it was too hot to really enjoy being outside in Pondy. But in the evenings, it cools off to a nice temp. The street that parallels the ocean is therefore blocked off from traffic so that people come out and walk. Everyone--- I mean everyone-- walks along the beach in the evenings. Vendors also had stalls set up to sell ice cream, poras, and watermelon. Just like in Ocean City, there was also people selling cheap toys and glow wands. It was great!

Here today...

There is no question about it that India is growing. Every time I come to visit, there is proof that it is progressing, modernizing, and changing. This always fills me with mixed feelings. On one hand, I see the need for better roads, job opportunities, schools, and hospitals. But, with this change, I often fear that India will lose its culture and what makes it such an amazing country. In Auranghbad, my fears where calmed by a few things that we saw. One, was the mass groups of pilgrims traveling on foot for days to visit a holy temple. As they walked, they played music and sang. In the middle of the procession there were several of the pilgrims who took turns carrying a cart with an carving of one of the gods. This type of pilgrimage is an act that has been carried out for hundreds of years in India. Seeing it still being done, gave me hope.

In Bangalore, however, my fears quickly return. There is so much change happening here and so quickly-- buildings coming up, roads being built that displace farms, prices skyrocketing. I usually love walking down my aunt's street in the afternoon. I remember doing this many times on my last trips and taking pictures of the farmers, kids playing soccer in the field nearby, cows walking around in the middle of the road. This time, the farmers and soccer field were gone and in their place-- construction sites. The road that used to be so nice to wander down is now a very busy street filled with trucks and motorcycles. Yesterday, we went to a very fancy mall in the middle of the city. As we were walking to the parking garage, I turned back and looked at the huge chain restaurants and thought, "I could be in any city in the US right now." It really chilled me.

I don't want to sound to pessimistic. Through the people I have met on my trips, I have come to realize that most Indian people are resilient and have a deep love for their culture and history. And even on my walk down my aunt's road, when I walked far enough, I ran into the two boys playing on the top of this entry.

The Wedding

I decided to wear a sari to the wedding, which in retrospect was not the best idea. My aunt tied the petticoat on soo tight ( I asked her to, because I was afraid that it would fall off), that by the end of the night, the mixture of the heat and trying to eat while unable to breath made me very sick. But I am glad I tried it out. Next time, I will risk flashing everyone in favor of being able to breath.

The wedding was very different from any wedding I have experienced before. We (I went with my cousin J.) sat in chairs facing the stage where the wedding ceremony would take place. It is Parsi tradition that the wedding take place after sundown--so we (the wedding guests) sat and waited for the sun to set.
There was a lot of talking and milling about. Most of the women were wearing saris and it was quite a display of different sari designs. Some women had very old tradition Parsi saris on. The younger women had daring saris with low cut backs.
I didn't want to take too many pictures for fear of being rude. At the last Indian wedding I went to (the brother of my aunt's driver)-- I was treated like royalty--given a coke to drink, moved up to the front of the stage so that I could take the best pictures--at this wedding, I was just another guest. Finally, the sun set and the groom walked down the aisle (to fast for me to take a picture). And then the bride with her father.
The priests came to the stage and blessed the bride and groom and threw rice. There was a sheet btw. the bride and groom to keep them from seeing each other, which was eventually removed. Then, they could face the crowd and receive more blessings. The priests spoke an ancient dead language, so I am not sure what they said, but it was very interesting to listen to.
When the ceremony was over, the bride and groom had to leave to go to a temple to be blessed. While everyone was waiting for them to return, there was a large reception with food and dancing. I wish I could of stayed for this. But we had plans to attend another party (one with amazing Indian food).

Bengalaru

On Thursday we left for Bangalore. It actually is now called Bengalaru. A name that is fun to say. In fact, I have been trying to say this word as often as I can. "I wonder if that man is flying to Bengalaru?"-- "What will we do when we arrive in Bengalaru?"-- "What is the temperature in in Bengalaru?"--etc. I am sure soon some one will tell me to stop.

Bangalore is the one place where it is very difficult to get Internet (IT capital of the world my foot)-- so I am not sure how often I will be able to post here (two days without Internet and I am already twitching).

The main reason we travel to the great city of Bengalaru is to see my aunt and uncle. They have a beautiful house in one of the suburbs called Whitefield. Usually, our visits to my aunt and uncles consists of visiting with family, eating ALOT of good Indian food, and shopping. This time, we have quite a busy social schedule as well. My aunt threw a giantic party for a friend on Friday night and today (Saturday) we are going to a Parsi wedding and then to another party. I hope to take lots of pictures!

On Thursday I missed my God daughter's birthday, so I am saying, "Happy Birthday!" to Jillian here. I hope she has a wonderful party today.

Here are few pictures from my aunt's party:

(my cousin Jehangir dressed like a prince)

(my aunt and the guest of honor)

Ajanta and Ellora

Tuesday and Wednesday were spent visiting the Ajanta and Ellora caves in Aurangabad. Next, to the Taj Mahal (the real one, not the hotel)--these caves are the most impressive thing I have seen in India. They were truly awe-inspiriting. The Ajanta caves are made up of 28 man-made caves chiseled out of the side of a mountain. The insides of the caves were decorated with Buddhist paintings and carvings. In these caves, private rooms are also carved out for the monks to use as bedrooms. The Ellora caves are also man-made-- they consist of 30 caves carved from a mountain. The caves are towering and feature gargantuan carvings of Hindu, Jain, and Buddhist gods and goddesses. All of these caves are super old-- the Ajanta caves were created btw 270 BC and 500AD. The Ellora caves were made btw 600 - 800 AD.

I am going to include a lot of pictures instead of talking more about my experience at the caves. I think the pictures can do it better justice. Although, I have to mention that my mom and I were carried to the different Ajanta caves on a palanquin--something I would never ever like to do again(I am hoping my mom will write an entry about her experience being carried up the mountain, she will tell it better than I can).
Ajanta

Ellora

The Taj Mahal Palace and Tower, Mumbai

I have been reading The Guinea Pig Diaries. In it, the author writes a chapter where he decides to outsource his entire life to India. He hires two companies and is assigned two women who will handle just about any personal or work related task--from sending emails to calling family members--even ordering presents for his son. I think the closest I will ever come to experiencing a life like this is what I experienced when staying at the Taj in Mumbai.

There was a staff there who made it their job to attend to my every wish (and some I didn't know I had). Each time I called guest services, I was greeted with a pleasant voice who said, "Welcome Miss Nanavati. How may I be of assistance?" If I stayed on the phone long enough with them, they would add, "Can I bring a cup of coffee or tea up to the room for you?"-- why yes, I thought, I hadn't realized that I wanted coffee, but I do. Doors were opened for us as we walked, our water glasses were filled before they were empty, and everyone was ready to assist at a moments notice. I could get used to this!

My favorite experience at the Taj happened during breakfast. I was navigating my way through the expansive buffet when I turned my head. There was my mom, a waiter with a plate in his hands in tow behind her. She would simple point to one of the food items and the waiter would spoon some on a plate for her. It went on like this for quite a while-- my mom pointing and the waiter scooping. Minutes after returning to my seat, my mom appeared and behind her was her personal waiter carrying her plate of food.

(lunch at Morimotos in the Taj)

The only amenity missing at the Taj was a clock in the room. On the last day, I realized that this wasn't an oversite on the hotels part-- clocks simply are not needed. Tuesday, we were scheduled to fly out to Auranghbad early in the morning. We needed to be out of the hotel at 5am (we always get stuck on the earliest flights). At 4am promptly, the phone range. On the other end was a cheerful female voice from guest services. "Good morning Miss Nanavati," the voice said, "it is my pleasure to wake you up this moring."

What's in my backpack

I am very excited about the backpack that my friend Alison is letting me borrow for my trip. First of all, it is red-- the perfect color-- second it has a button on it that says, "Fear Not I'm Librarian" which is sure to help out in tricky situations.

To go along with the coolness of the pack, I filled it with fun things to keep me entertained during long plane rides and what not.
So here, for your consideration, the contents of my backpack:

• My journal-- A must have
  

• Books -- I brought with me Stones for Schools (The sequel to Three Cups of Tea), Kitchen Confidential, and The Guinea Pig Diaries (the last one was recommended to me by my friend Jessica).
  
• Knitting-- I have a scarf that was/is a Christmas present for my brother, perhaps I will finish it this trip. I also am knitting a pair of socks.
  
• My hat-- Yes, it is going to be in the high 80s where I am going, but what I have found out about India, is you can never be too sure about the weather.
• Aleve-- well, of course!
• My ipod-- I filled it with great songs and "How to Learn Spanish" podcasts. I figured Hindi would be too hard.
• My camera-- a given
• A digital picture frame-- so that I can show people pictures of my family (and my cats).
  
• Pop tarts-- while not featured in this picture, they are in there. I can't go on a trip without snacks ;)
  

Holi

I have heard several explanations of Holi, but the one that I have heard the most is that Holi is the celebration of spring. Last night, when we were driving to the hotel from the airport, we saw bon fires being lit all along the roadways--this is the first part of the holiday. Today is the second part--the day where people "play Holi." Most stores and businesses are closed today. People stay home and celebrate by throwing colored powder at each other.

As we were site seeing today—I caught glimpse of alleys where children were tossing the colored powder at each other. Then, they would spray each other with water from squirt guns. The end result was a bunch of wet, colored children. And it isn’t just children. There were adults walking around, riding on their motor scooters, working their normal jobs covered in colors.

Our tour guide was most unimpressed with this holiday. She said that people become "quite aggressive and drunk as the day goes on" (sounds a little like St. Patty’s Day). She also said that the colored powder is very hard to clean up. Many families, she said, go to water parks or hotels so that they can play Holi without the worry of cleaning up afterwards.

My mom and I got to play Holi only briefly. While we were visiting the Hanging Gardens we met an older man who decided become our personal tour guide of the flowers in the gardens. He must be a regular at the park because all of the older men sitting on the park benches knew him. One of his friends offered us a sweet in honor of Holi. Another asked if we wanted to be colored (see picture). So, while we did not get as coated in colored powder as most—we did get a little decorating. Welcome spring! I will try to bring the spring back with me to Maryland.

Arriving

The funny thing about flying to India is that I lose all sense of time. I could have been on the airplane for four hours or four days. I really don't know. All I know is that I left my house in Baltimore at 11am on Saturday morning and about 10pm on Sunday I arrived at the Mumbia airport. Two hours for baggage claim, an hour drive to the hotel and we had officially arrived.
All of it could be a dream or a story-- the entire travel experience is in a fog. There were a few things that happened along the way, however, that reminded that I was truly going to (or in India). The first was on the airplane when we were served our first meal. In a neatly wrapped package of silverware, moist toilets, and a napkin was a little packet of what the airline food service calls "Dinner Epilogue." It is a mix of fennel, coriander, and sesame seeds (along with alot of unnatural food coloring). This after dinner mix is something I have only experienced India (or Indian resturants). My aunt Silla has a jar of it that she offers us after every meal. When I pulled the packet of this mix out while I was on the airplane-- I got chills. And then it hit me, my God I am really going to India!

The first stray dog I saw sleeping on the berm in the middle of the road also reminded me where I was. Matted, dirty, sleeping dogs is something I have seen in just about every Indian city. Finally, a sobering reminder that I was in fact in India occured when we pulled up to the Taj Mahal hotel. Our car was immediatly searched for bombs and we went through a metal detectors before we could enter the hotel.

The picture above is the view from our hotel. Truly breath taking!

Monday, we tour Mumbai and enjoy the amenities of the Taj hotel. We have been told that we arrived in time for Holi. Monday, everyone throws colored powder and celebrates. I am hoping for some great pictures.

Starting Off

Every trip I am able to take to India I feel very lucky that I am able to go. The past two trips with my mother have been amazing. I have met many wonderful people, taken some fabulous pictures, and eaten food that makes my soul happy.

This trip, I am sure, will be no exception. It is going to be a shorter trip-- only two weeks-- but I will try to make the most out of the time I am there. Our itinerary is a very simple one this time:

• Mumbai
• Ellora
• and then to Bangalore to see my family

I will try to add entries when I can--but I am never sure where I can get internet access. To start off the trip, here are a few of my favorite pictures from my previous trip.